How bright you want it is a matter of room lighting and personal preference. What's needs calibration is the black level and contrast (and colors too if you're picky). There are hardware devices to help with this but you can pretty much eyeball brightness/contrast using a gray scale chart.You should be able to see a difference between all four of the bright whites (255, 251, 239, 231) and dark grays (20, 12, 4, 0 - you may not see much difference between 4 and 0). You should also be able to see the difference between the medium grays (16, 43. The grayscale and bluescale bars should be very smooth. You should not see significant banding in them.Here's a useful monitor test program. Something is just strange about this monitor.
The brightness control on the monitor seems to have no effect on the black pluge bars in the SMPTE Bars. At the monitor's brightest, I'm supposed to see a clear difference between all three. Then I lower the brightness until there is no difference between the left and middle bar and the right bar is just slightly lighter. But on this monitor, when I lower the brightness, it doesn't seem to affect what I see on the screen. I think I might send this monitor back.
In case you're wondering, it's the Acer X223W. Note that some manufacturers use different names for black level and white level. I think Sony uses Picture for white level and Contrast for black level. And generally, the two controls are not completely independent.Be careful with SMPTE color bars. Are you watching a YUV source with video overlay? Or are you viewing an RGB source with GDI (like the Windows picture and FAX viewer)?
If you're adjusting your monitor for normal Windows desktop use you do not want to use a YUV source and video overlay. Using an RGB source you should be able to see all the black bars. Adjust the monitor for the desktop, then use the proc amp controls to adjust brightness and contrast for video overlay.
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